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When assembling a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee renowned high-end establishments. Yet, nestled near the top among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

The small Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. The recognition has made the owners completely astonished.

“I am utterly shocked,” remarks a owner’s son, referring to his family’s dedication that led to their small place securing such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its earlier feel. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the fare, and this eatery certainly delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender texture.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate beyond its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this culinary honour.